simtec or apexi fc for classic

I was using a TDO6 with 49lb wheel, it had made around 420/420 on around 1.5 bar, and had a bit left, Should look into maybe an MD 321h, or scoobyclinics Billet turbos, ask Harvey aswell he was selling some new vf turbos that might make does figures, but just be carefull about what i said about turbos running out of puff, nothing worst than that happening, all go and then nothing :wall: like you went from turbo to n/a :zzzz: a turbo thats good and pulls to the red on a 2ltr could well gasp for breathfrom 5500 revs up on 2.5.. and remember that your rev limit is down 1k so you really need to utilise what you have, not be dien off at 5500
 
what you have at the minute? A 20g should produce around that figure... but i had a 20g before on a 2.5 and i personally wasnt over impressed with it, thats just me do. Harvey sells does aswell
 
vf ihi 22 it pulls like fuk froggy has a td06 20g would like to get a gt30 all dependin on the funds :icon_sad:
 
Hello Ger,

I normally do not get into Tech or Spec conversations.

As the lads have said above, it is relatively easy and in-expensive to get a reliable 400/400 but when you go over this the costs can mount up :icon_eyes:

Looking over posts you have a Type-R :thumbsup:

I am not sure of the full spec, but it is a forged 2.5. I have concentrated on a 2.0 Semi Closed Deck Block on my S204. If I am going to do anything next year it will be with a EJ22T Closed Deck Block.

A lot of the general expense can be listed as follows:

Engine Build - Pistons, Rods, Bearings, Timing Belt, Head Studs etc.
Fueling - Fuel Pump, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Injectors
Induction & Breathing - Oil Catch Can, Inlet Hose, Turbo, Exhaust, Headers & Intercooler Choice etc
Engine Management - As above there is a lot of choice available

As your car is a Type-R the gearbox is only rated to a reliable 400/400 after that who knows when it will give up

In order to get over this limiting factor, you will need a six speed box, complete with a Paddle Clutch or Twin-plate - Depending on the numbers you are chasing.

As Johnny said, it is then onto stopping the car & making sure it goes around corners - so a budget for brakes & suspension may need to be considered :thumbsup:

As ken says above, that extra 50Bhp does cost a lot if you want the car to be reliable in delivering the extra ponies.

If you are going to take a long term view on the car, spec it out from the start. Purchase parts and fit when getting mapped / remapped if they are going to effect the engine set-up :thumbsup:

I hope this helps :thumbsup:

Cheers,

Michael
 
[quote author=Michael Spec C link=topic=28225.msg329565#msg329565 date=1293574040]
Hello Ger,

I normally do not get into Tech or Spec conversations.

As the lads have said above, it is relatively easy and in-expensive to get a reliable 400/400 but when you go over this the costs can mount up :icon_eyes:

Looking over posts you have a Type-R :thumbsup:

I am not sure of the full spec, but it is a forged 2.5. I have concentrated on a 2.0 Semi Closed Deck Block on my S204. If I am going to do anything next year it will be with a EJ22T Closed Deck Block.

A lot of the general expense can be listed as follows:
hi mick thanks for all the advice its a fully forged build cosworth rods arp head studs acl racing bears nitrided crank etc so after all the comments i think ill stay 380-400 max as for the suspension its runnin hks coilovers and loads of cusco braces so jus need sort my mappin and fuel and brakes :thumbsup:

Engine Build - Pistons, Rods, Bearings, Timing Belt, Head Studs etc.
Fueling - Fuel Pump, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Injectors
Induction & Breathing - Oil Catch Can, Inlet Hose, Turbo, Exhaust, Headers & Intercooler Choice etc
Engine Management - As above there is a lot of choice available

As your car is a Type-R the gearbox is only rated to a reliable 400/400 after that who knows when it will give up

In order to get over this limiting factor, you will need a six speed box, complete with a Paddle Clutch or Twin-plate - Depending on the numbers you are chasing.

As Johnny said, it is then onto stopping the car & making sure it goes around corners - so a budget for brakes & suspension may need to be considered :thumbsup:

As ken says above, that extra 50Bhp does cost a lot if you want the car to be reliable in delivering the extra ponies.

If you are going to take a long term view on the car, spec it out from the start. Purchase parts and fit when getting mapped / remapped if they are going to effect the engine set-up :thumbsup:

I hope this helps :thumbsup:

Cheers,

Michael

[/quote]
 
hi mick hows things yeah its a fully forged build cosworth pistons and rods acl bearings arp head studs and crank and a nitrided crank cossie pump etc jus need get my mappin and fuelin sorted so its safe and work on it from there as for the suspension its runnin hks coilovers adjustable top mounts etc and loads of cusco braces thanks for the advice all taken on board :thumbsup:

cheers ger
 
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