Rough rich idle and can not catch its self after rev

I forgot to update if anyone cares lol. its with another garage again as I just did not have the time to look at it and only could work on it on the weekend and they found a big leak in the up pipe which has made it run better. which makes sense and also advised the map sensor could have been bad but I'm waiting to hear back.
 
I forgot to update if anyone cares lol. its with another garage again as I just did not have the time to look at it and only could work on it on the weekend and they found a big leak in the up pipe which has made it run better. which makes sense and also advised the map sensor could have been bad but I'm waiting to hear back.

I had same car and same thing
Was the welds on the up pipe went I. I. R.C.
So it could seperate in the centre
But it drove OK and made a exhaust blow
Didn't have You're symptoms if that means anything
 
Hopefully you get it sorted.
I'm not a mechanic, so can't really help with technical sh*t...
But if it's not sorted, I can recommend Dave at RSR... If you can get him to work on it. He does be busy..
I know you said you checked vacuum lines, however I would suggest that you check them again and replace with new silicone tube. I went to get my legacy re-re mapped(as engine melted) and was told getting no where near the correct fueling, even though car was running fine.
Changed out fuel pump and filter. Talked to Dave and he told me that it had to be AFR issue, so done a leak test (through the brake booster line) and eventually found a TINY crack on the underside of TWO of the vacuum lines from manifold to bpv. Now between the two things I done, the car is running absolutely perfect. instantaneous boost whereas before it took it's time and never hit over 1bar, not hitting just over 1.1 bar as soon as I drop my foot. I can't say for 100%, but would say it was more the tiny,tiny boost leak rather than the fuel pump.
Currently in process of changing every single hose....
The rubber lines go hard and turn to a hard plastic like material and can crack or not seal properly on the nipple's. Also most of the vacuum lines are just push fit on and can be snagged ,like say, when someone is doing a manual swap...
I would pull the intake manifold off and replace whatever lines you can in and around that area( breather hoses etc)
Failing eliminating the issue yourself, it's a investigation step by step to trace the problem and can get expensive (Dave charges by the hour,)
I have some silicone tubing there that I didn't use(4&6 mm id - you'll also need 8 & 10mm Id and maybe 12/13 mm)
Your welcome to have that if you want.
Also get some form of small clamps on all of your vacuum lines at both ends.
 
Sorry, forgot to say this to you, but you mentioned that you had a blow off valve..
Did you mean the original bypass recirculation valve, or a aftermarket blow off,vent to atmosphere, valve?
These engines and ECU do not like blow off valves at all and will run rich as it's expecting air that it's already metered, and doesn't get it, and will sometimes cut out.
 
Sorry i just saw this. The annoying this is that uppipe is aftermarket too. I couldn't believe it got a leak after such little time. oh yes those damn hoses a lot where solid including the egr under the intercooler. Damn my timing sucks i just bought a load of different silicone hoses haha. yes its a forge bov but i don't have the oem one i was meaning to buy a gfb one as it has a blow off and also recirc. Though i need it to be slightly rich as i have a vf34 in it from a td04 just for a little safety.
 
no it isn't but i have not gone full boost i try to early shift since installing it and octane booster just in case that helps. I drove on it for a good few months before all this(I found the photos its from the January 2021 to march 2022). I doubt it could have caused all this as the garages think its map related and of course the gasket blowing didn't help
 
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Straight to the point here ok,

You’ve changed the turbo from a td04 that produces 220hp or less usually to an Sti turbo which produces 280-330hp and driving around un mapped , no injector changes?
Who fitted the turbo ?
Was the inlet pipe damaged during fitting or not on the inlet of the turbo correctly ? This would most definitely cause the issue you’re having.

Buying fancy unnecessary silicone hoses isn’t going to fix the basics
 
Think there's a few issues here manual boost controller previously never a good idea but not on it now.

Neither is a bigger turbo and no remap but get what you said above no point if not running right.

Any issues when you had the tdo4 on mabay swap back to it mighy make your fault finding a bit easier.

Double checking the boost pipes again carefully for leaks.

The forge worth looking at too was it on it before issues?

Ran one for years with zero issues if set up right and tons of lads here have bovs no issue.

It should have a spring in it that is a diff colour (restiance) depending on boost your running worth investigating.
 
The injectors on the forester to start with are quite big they are yellow top side feeds - this link is someone getting it tested https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2627318

The td04 seized up is why we upgraded, I couldn't really find a good td04 for a good price they were similar to what i paid for the vf34, and no the inlet was not damaged we checked, the amount of times those pipes have been pulled on and off for smoke testing and all. Plus the boost controller is off and will stay off as it got rid of all the wiring and i doubt i will put it back. I'm not sure if I mentioned that so I think my wastegate is 7psi

I don't think the forge is the issue its being fine since i got the car. It had a real stiff spring in it before i think it was like 16psi but i tested the others and there was no difference felt. I always thought it may be running rich because of the recirc part being blocked and it just being a full bov. It's being running rich since i bought it.

The guy told me its running much better but i haven't seen it or heard it so it could well be back to what it was like as it was running rich which will do up to me getting it tuned. Its not my main car so there's really no rush with the whole thing
 
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Don't really matter what turbo is on it at idle as its doing nothing anyway
I would suggest taking off the vf34 and apart from selling it to me 🙂 and fitting the td04 I have
double check that soft flange on the turbo inlet pipe they are a nightmare to rip and can cause this issue as afm is not reading all the air the engine is receiving Also check or replace the small vacuam hose to the fuel reg its hard to see on the end of the rail but its in a hostile environment and is prone to splitting
 
7psi on a td04 and 7psi on a vf34 I agree is the same boost but will still be a different airflow as the compressor wheel is larger so the fueling would definitely be off , pressure is different to airflow capability of a turbo , bigger turbo more airflow, adjustment to fueling needed

Give an example 1.6bar on a sc46 made 360hp on mine ,changed to a larger Garret 3076r same boost 1.6bar 448hp

The airflow meter may need to be rescaled to account for the larger turbo to make the most of it

May not be causing it idle roughly but either way a map is needed

I’d agree with Kev above , rip in the inlet hose of an air leak somewhere most likely
 
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Defo above idle it would be in need of a map alright but would have no affect on idle
I might have a v5/6 intake hose if that the engine that's used
 
It might with a factory airflow meter setup Kev , with a airflow meter deleted/map sensor only with an aftermarket ecu it wouldn’t ( what we’d be used to ), no harm in getting it mapped anyway and if still issues obviously an air leak somewhere
 
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