GRADES OF OIL

i use hpx 20w50 as recomended by my tuner and builder, and find it great it always runs high oil pressure and i
change it every 5k, and if ive no 20w50 i use 15w50 silkoline, i found that after a few k running 10w40 oil pressure starts to drop off
 
had 10.40 in my pug yesterday and at 120deg was still holding 2 bar at idle, will have 15.50 in for the next time and see what difference it makes :thumbsup:
 
castrol edge 10w 60 recomended by subaru specalists if its good enough.for the wrc cars its good enough for me
 
when i had 10w40 in mine the oil pressure gauge was flashing low,as soon as it was changed to 10w60 (castrol) i had no prob with the pressure
 
I use the Castrol Edge 10w 60 Fully Synthetic for the last few years with the odd track day thrown in and never a problem

but if its a standard car and your not doing track 10w 40 will be fine and cheaper, just buy a good brand and change it ever 6 months or 5-6k miles.
 
on my scooby there is a subaru dealer oil service sticker with 0w 20 ticked om the box, and i brought my scooby in myself from japan so wasnt put on in ireland, anyone ever here of this been used
 
Bit of info here....MOTUL 300V 15W/50
Formulated upon esters and extremely efficient antifriction stocks, the 300V's are 100% SYNTHETIC

PERFORMANCE

Formulated upon esters and extremely efficient antifriction stocks, the 300V's are 100% SYNTHETIC and include no, viscosity boosters (or only trace amounts of), to achieve an extraordinary high resistance to shear.
The common characteristics along the whole 300V line are :

Remarkable decrease of the engines internal frictions, which guarantees high performance and reliability, quite often with a noticeable decrease of running noises.

Top resistance to high temperature charring - an extreme resistance of the oil film - résistance très élevée du film d’huile

Low volatility, with quite little evaporation at high temperatures.
Increased oil pressures and stability.

SPECIFIC TESTS

- Oil film resistance

Conventional multiple grade mineral and semi-synthetic motor oils, as 100% synthetic super-multigrade lubricants (5W40, 5W50, 10W60...) use additives to boost their viscosity. These viscosity additives tend to loose efficiency when submitted to extreme conditions, which translates into a drop of viscosity and oil pressure.

Since the 300V's of the MOTUL MOTORSPORT line benefit from the natural viscosity of synthetic ester basestocks, they need very little of such additives, or none.

The ASTM D 4741 official test of HT/HS* (High Temperature High Shear) viscosity measures the viscosity of lubricants at very high temperature (150°C / 302°F) and shear (1 000 000 s-1). This test is considered to be a good model of the fluid's state when exposed to extreme shear and temperature as found in an engine.

The higher the benchmark, the best the oil film keeps up its viscosity, hence its resistance to high stress in hydrodynamic rating. Tests prove the best results are achieved with a high viscosity grade (50 or 60) at high temperature, and without viscosity boosters.

- Resistance to high temperature coking
While racing, when the engine is pushed to the extreme, or during pit stops and refuellings, (Track day activities accurately mimic these scenarios), the oil temperature reaches maximal values.

The same happens to your car when stuck in traffic jams, hard or fast-driven for long journeys Etc .

Hence the capital attention to avoid the carbonization of lubricants heated to high temperatures.The lubricant residues carbonized through overheating (i.e. charring) are weighed, the best benchmark being a low weight.

The test measures the coking of engine oils at a sustained high temperature (5 days at 160°C / 320°F) and blasted for 48 hours against an aluminum shim heated at 290°C / 554°F.

Tests prove the choice of basestocks, especially synthetic ester bases, to be a major promoter of resistance to high temperature coking.

The 300V's of the MOTORSPORT line reveal virtually almost no coking during this test.

Esters

All jet engines are lubricated with synthetic esters, and have been for 50 years, but these expensive fluids only started to appear in petrol engine oils about 20 years ago. Thanks to their aviation origins, the types suitable for lubricants (esters also appear in perfumes; they are different!) work well from –50 degC to 200 degC, and they have a useful extra trick.

Due to their structure, ester molecules are “polar”; they stick to metal surfaces using electrostatic forces. This means that a protective layer is there at all times, even during that crucial start-up period. This helps to protect cams, gears, piston rings and valve train components, where lubrication is “boundary” rather than “hydrodynamic”, i.e. a very thin non-pressure fed film has to hold the surface apart. Even crank bearings benefit at starts, stops or when extreme shock loads upset the “hydrodynamic” film.

We recommend Silkolene PRO or Motul 300V as being the best choice if you want a "top" oil.
 
i got an engine rebuild a few years back on my 2001 b4 with kenny mc kinstry in banbridge...asked his head mechanic what grade of oil to use and was told 5w/40 or 5w/50 fully synt and to change it every 3500 miles...

i took that advise and i use BARDAHL 5w/40 fully synt ever since without any probs.....

any thoughts on that advise ???
 
"subaru garages origonally sold 10-60, but then changed to 10-40. i'd usually put 10-40 in a stanard roadgoing car. 15-50 for modded or tracked cars. everybody has different opinions and different expieriences. i just find this works for me "

from ciaran

"as above....

motul 15/50 for cars 280bhp above that would have heavy driving common enough.

motul 10/40 for cars below280bhp....~"

from Davelegacy


These boys know what their talking about
 
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