Recirc valve and possibly burning my car

Fozzy

Petrolheads
Still having stalling issues and running rich. When I?m idling the car surges slightly if I rev it the revs come down to zero and the car stalls. Popping and backfiring on deceleration.

So far changed MAF O2 sensor IAC valve, TPS, cleaned throttle body, fitted AFPR and fuel pressure is fine. I?m now suspecting that maybe the aftermarket BOV that was fitted when I got it is the issue.

I?d like to go back to a stick one - does anyone know what one I need for a JDM 2001 Forester STI - as far as I can make out the engine and intercooler are the same as the 99-00 WRX but I?ve been googling and cant seem to find any?

If someone has one that they think might fit let me know - preferably before I set the car on fire ...
 
Stock recirc BOV better for sure and personally would have that on it...
It certainly is possible that the after market BOV is causing issues.
Typically they are either stuck open (and / or not sealing properly on the internal valve face), or stuck closed (see below for typical symptoms that go with each).
Given what you described it is unlikely to be either stuck open or closed as symptoms indicate a combination of each (or other issue affecting fuelling afr).

e.g.

If BOV stuck closed...
> idle = ok as no air leak
> high = ok as no air leak
> Coming of trottle = problem as compressor wheel stall and lean afr for a moment while "over pressure" escapes through engine instead of vent back to intake or atmosphere (not what you are describing as popping and backfiring is unburned fuel in exhaust igniting (rich afr)... so not applicable in this scenario)

If BOV stuck open...
> idle = can be high but likely lean (neg manifold pressure sucking in unmetered air)
> high = Boost down as metered air escaping through BOV and hence running rich
> Coming off throttle = return to normal afr on initial off throttle and then lean likely

So far changed MAF O2 sensor IAC valve, TPS, cleaned throttle body, fitted AFPR and fuel pressure is fine.

Suggestions that may help find your issue (or info not in posts that would help narrow it down):
  1. Is the car boosting at right pressure?
  2. Boost pipes and clamps between intake manifold, intercooler and turbo all in good shape?
  3. All vacuum lines tested to be good for all the boost control lines and potential boost gauge (each and every line tested individually with vacuum & pressure tester)?
  4. All joints / gaskets near intake manifold ok and not leaking air (blow some smoke around all joints at idle and will show if leak as vacuum will draw in smoke)
  5. Are the MAF 02 / TPS sensors tested to be working correctly regardless of new (scoped it / voltage tested to see if output correct), also is wiring loom ok -> is the signal at the ecu pin reading the correct resistance and seeing correct voltages as seen at actual sensor? (keep in mind these cars are getting older and some looms may have corrosion etc changing resistance and hence voltage values and hence need to verify as banging in new sensor will not solve a wiring issue)
  6. Injectors original size and ok (wiring, flow, etc)?
  7. Stock map and ecu, or custom map? (if custom, get map checked)

Wide band lambda useful to see actual AFR's at idle, throttle and off throttle to be sure of what actual situation is for each.

Stock BOV should be easily got for little money from a breakers... but after that would get methodical and go through above list to definitively rule stuff out rather than keep chucking parts at it.

Hope you get it sorted before you're eyeing up a gallon of thinners to sort it out lol.
 
Stock recirc BOV better for sure and personally would have that on it...
It certainly is possible that the after market BOV is causing issues.
Typically they are either stuck open (and / or not sealing properly on the internal valve face), or stuck closed (see below for typical symptoms that go with each).
Given what you described it is unlikely to be either stuck open or closed as symptoms indicate a combination of each (or other issue affecting fuelling afr).

e.g.

If BOV stuck closed...
> idle = ok as no air leak
> high = ok as no air leak
> Coming of trottle = problem as compressor wheel stall and lean afr for a moment while "over pressure" escapes through engine instead of vent back to intake or atmosphere (not what you are describing as popping and backfiring is unburned fuel in exhaust igniting (rich afr)... so not applicable in this scenario)

If BOV stuck open...
> idle = can be high but likely lean (neg manifold pressure sucking in unmetered air)
> high = Boost down as metered air escaping through BOV and hence running rich
> Coming off throttle = return to normal afr on initial off throttle and then lean likely



Suggestions that may help find your issue (or info not in posts that would help narrow it down):
  1. Is the car boosting at right pressure?
  2. Boost pipes and clamps between intake manifold, intercooler and turbo all in good shape?
  3. All vacuum lines tested to be good for all the boost control lines and potential boost gauge (each and every line tested individually with vacuum & pressure tester)?
  4. All joints / gaskets near intake manifold ok and not leaking air (blow some smoke around all joints at idle and will show if leak as vacuum will draw in smoke)
  5. Are the MAF 02 / TPS sensors tested to be working correctly regardless of new (scoped it / voltage tested to see if output correct), also is wiring loom ok -> is the signal at the ecu pin reading the correct resistance and seeing correct voltages as seen at actual sensor? (keep in mind these cars are getting older and some looms may have corrosion etc changing resistance and hence voltage values and hence need to verify as banging in new sensor will not solve a wiring issue)
  6. Injectors original size and ok (wiring, flow, etc)?
  7. Stock map and ecu, or custom map? (if custom, get map checked)

Wide band lambda useful to see actual AFR's at idle, throttle and off throttle to be sure of what actual situation is for each.

Stock BOV should be easily got for little money from a breakers... but after that would get methodical and go through above list to definitively rule stuff out rather than keep chucking parts at it.

Hope you get it sorted before you're eyeing up a gallon of thinners to sort it out lol.


Cheers man, it seems it?s not the BOV either - I made a blanking plate this morning and blanked it off totally at the intercooler to test - same issue!

I also pulled and cleaned the crank sensor - no change.

So far I have pulled and changed the IACV, MAF, O2, TPS and also cleaned the throttle body and crank sensor. Smoke tested for vac leaks - nothing.

Blanked the bov - no change. All clamps seem tight.

Changed Fuel Pressure Regulator and fitted an adjustable one with gauge - pressure seems spot on and not dropping.

Connected to OBD reader and voltage readings for all sensors seem within range (explaining why I have no CEL?)

Totally stumped now and ready to throw in the towel. Still running rich, backfiring, stalling when coming to a stop andat Idle it surges slightly and when I blip the throttle the revs fall to zero and it cuts out
 
When did you last do your spark plugs i something similar in my foz couple months ago including throwing cel for bank 2 to rich put new spark plugs in and it sorted it out
 
When did you last do your spark plugs i something similar in my foz couple months ago including throwing cel for bank 2 to rich put new spark plugs in and it sorted it out

Plugs done about 10 months /11k ago - I?ll recheck them and the coil pack too I guess
 
You check your timing?

That?s next on the list - I?ll get a gun into it on monday - sounds as smooth as it ever did at idle bar the slight surge so I?d be surprised if the timing was out but, at this stage I?ll check anything !!!
 
Pull off two outside timing covers and make sure you haven't slipped a tooth on any of the cam pulleys
 
That?s next on the list - I?ll get a gun into it on monday - sounds as smooth as it ever did at idle bar the slight surge so I?d be surprised if the timing was out but, at this stage I?ll check anything !!!

Ignition timing is not adjustable, mapped into ecu controlled by cam/crank sensor correlation and load/rpms etc. Timing light will tell you nothing if it has slipped a tooth on the 3 other cam pulleys that don't have cam sensor
 
Thanks for that Seanie - I?ll pull the covers tomorrow and have a look - thanks again for the advice much appreciated
 
On that, timing belt tensioner pulleys and water pump were changed less than a year ago. If it has jumped and the belt looks good, can I just readjust or should I change the belt, tensioner, pulleys again to be sure?
 
Back
Top