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Thread: audi a4 turbo

  1. #1
    Full ISDC Club Member mac mac's Avatar
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    audi a4 turbo

    so my mate has been told his turbo on a 2006 A4 2.0 tdi is gonzo/dead . looking advice on whether to buy new ,second hand or possibly re-condition his existing unit . as there are alot here with way more knowledge than me ,can anyone advise best route to go or give any advice . thanks in advance
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  2. #2
    Petrolheads
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    Depends on how badly it’s damaged. I’d personally take a reconditioned one over rolling the dice with a second hand one but if the cost of reconditioning is close to a new one then it’s a no-brainer. Best of giving it to a specialist for appraisal and a quote?

    On another note, I’m on the way to get that guage out as I type so will send you pics this evening

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    Had turbo reconditioned on my e39 2 years ago , runs perfect .

    Seamus Dempsey engineering in tinahely ..Top man
    Last edited by ALAN83; 31-05-2018 at 16:43.

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    Full ISDC Club Member Keadeen's Avatar
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    Hi Ross, I'd go with a reconditioned unit as comes with a guarantee. €350 including VAT from a place like Drive Shaft Services in Dublin (just off the Long Mile rd). Way cheaper than new but similar peace of mind (labour at least similar amount, so hence unless doing job yourself just not worth taking a chance on a 2nd hand unit which probably will be at least 150-200 as well).

    Before getting one though make sure to properly diagnose what is wrong with it as may not be "dead".

    Are there any DTC codes?

    Things to look for to see if really needs a reconditioned/new turbo:
    if lateral movement or grinding when pull/push or turn wheel by hand then needs rebuild. In that case need to assess why bearings failed (bad service history, clogged or pinched oil feed / drain, etc). If you do not find and address the root cause would only end up blowing next turbo before long.

    ... but, if for example if turns freely and no shaft play then more than likely stuck vanes (that engine has a VNT turbo) or actuator gone (or vacuum leak). To check for latter need vacuum tester... also undo actuator arm and see if arm moves in and out (on start up or ECU test cycle or rev engine a bit in gear with slight bite on clutch to build pressure, or indeed use the vacuum tester on the tube going to the actuator)... Also check other end of that where arm attaches to the lever on turbo housing. That lever moves VNT vanes and they tend to get stuck.
    If moving freely for about 15-20mm then all good, but if not moving that much or stiff then vanes stuck (usually soot built up, but can be rust if car sat for a while). If soot then cheap enough fix of about an hour's worth of work and the price of a can of oven cleaner (undo downpipe, spray in oven cleaner like Mr Muscle foam, move that lever by hand regularly for a minute or so over a 1-2 hour period, redo downpipe and take for a good spirited spin).
    If rust then need to disassemble it, clean it and reassemble it. About 4 hours total for taking off turbo and refitting it and about 90 minutes to disassemble / clean / reassemble - which is a still a significant saving over a recon unit.
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    Full ISDC Club Member blacktar's Avatar
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    What's the reg

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