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Thread: Rear sub frame bolts broke off

  1. #1
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    Rear sub frame bolts broke off

    Hi
    I'm in the middle of taking out my rear sub frame and the nut that's tac welded on to the car has broke off inside, so I've had to cut off the bolt to get my sub frame off. This has left me with half the bolt hanging out and the nut attached rattling inside the hole absolute pain in the arse. What's the best way to fix this?

    I was thinking to cut a box around the hole and take out a little square with the nut that was rattling around tac on a new nut to the back and weld back onto the car?

    Any other ideas or is this the only way?

    There's more than a few bolts in the process this happened to....

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    Same happened to me. Where about a are you based?

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    I'm in Tallaght

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    Quote Originally Posted by duffmancb View Post
    I'm in Tallaght
    Ciaran Larkin at Larkin Automotive in Finglas fixed mine .

    01-8346499

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    Quote Originally Posted by BazGF8 View Post
    Ciaran Larkin at Larkin Automotive in Finglas fixed mine .

    01-8346499
    Thanks did he come out to you or did you have to get the car to him?

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    same

    i had the same problem .. there is a nut on the suspension that is flanged .. i think 25mm flange .. cant remember where .. if you llok around the car ul find it .. .. i drilled old nut hole 25mm and welded the flanged nut in ..
    www.aliburrowsmotorsport.com

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    Smile

    I had the same thing happen when fitting an anti dive kit to the front of a Classic. The captive nut started spinning. Rather than start cutting from the bottom and the inevitable "welding in some form of plate" I decided to go from the top down. In my case I could access the nut through the passenger side foot well. It should be possible with the rear captive nuts also?

    Measure up roughly where the nut would be accessible from above - in your case somewhere under the back seat? Using a holesaw about 30-35mm in diameter drill an access hole. Push up the remains of your sheared bolt and feed it out through the hole you've drilled. The advantage in doing it this way is you keep the original nut centre position. Get a replacement nut - preferably flanged and secure it inside a 1/2" drive socket by putting a strip or two of insulating tape along the side wall of the socket. It needs to be secure enough not to fall out when passing down through your new access hole but not so tight that when you've tightened the nut the socket stays fixed to the nut and all you come away with is the 1/2" extension bar.

    If you can't get access directly overhead you can go in from the side and use a ring spanner in the same way.

    Advantage of this way - no welding.....no fires etc

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    Pedro555 (15-02-2018)

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    But you have cut a 35mm hole in the car
    IT TOOK ME FOOKING 3 YEARS TO WORK OUT HOW TO PUT THIS SMALL BIT OF TEXT HERE!!!!!

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    ali burrows motorsport (15-02-2018)

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    Quote Originally Posted by keith dublin View Post
    But you have cut a 35mm hole in the car
    Not the end of the world though Keith in duffmancb's case, as its the rear subframe bolt and the access above would be in from the boot.

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    Yeah its not a bad idea but id imagine getting the new bolt started on the nut wouldn't be too easy.
    I have rubber blanks/bungs i could plug up the hole with after too so wouldn't look too bad?

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    Quote Originally Posted by keith dublin View Post
    But you have cut a 35mm hole in the car
    I know Keith - it's a trade off

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    Is there no other way didnt bas do his
    IT TOOK ME FOOKING 3 YEARS TO WORK OUT HOW TO PUT THIS SMALL BIT OF TEXT HERE!!!!!

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