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Thread: Brembo bleed nipple sheared off

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    Full ISDC Club Member BazGF8's Avatar
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    Brembo bleed nipple sheared off

    Has this happened anyone and what are the options to get it removed without damaging threads?
    V4 Sti Wagon

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    Full ISDC Club Member Keadeen's Avatar
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    Hi Baz, hope you're keeping well mate.

    Search for stud extractor kits like LINK. Only way to do it if sheared off and little or no protruding part of the nipple left sticking out over the caliper body. Will need to take caliper off, drill a pilot hole (has to be done on a column drill to make sure dead straight and dead centre of nipple (if off then will either damage caliper thread, and/or the remaining nipple material too little and will be "pushed out" by the tapered extractor tool and "jam/seize" nipple even tighter in the caliper) and then "tap" in the left turning extractor tool. At best a 50/50 shot though if badly seized to start with. In the past have found it can help to heat the caliper in the oven for a good even heat that won't damage caliper (after drilling hole but before fitting extractor) and then blasting remaining stud/bolt/nipple with "thermal shock" spray can like for example Halford's Shock & Unlock.

    Hope it works out fella.
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    Full ISDC Club Member BazGF8's Avatar
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    Cheers Charles
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    Talk to Nigel bracken happened him . He got stainless steel replacement ones that are very cool have a nipple in a nipple so it can never happen again
    colin, richard, bertie, frank, gone but not forgotten.

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    Commitee Member / ISDC Event Organizer GORDON GT SERIES II's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GORDON GT SERIES II View Post
    There the right job

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    There the ones I used when it happened to me. Had to be drilled and tapped they work well.


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    That is it on the caliper. Probably could do with a bit of paint.


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    Full ISDC Club Member BazGF8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nigelbracken View Post
    There the ones I used when it happened to me. Had to be drilled and tapped they work well.


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    How did you get the old one out?

    The dust seals on mine are melted from track use so I’ll have them off soon
    V4 Sti Wagon

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    Commitee Member / ISDC Event Organizer GORDON GT SERIES II's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BazGF8 View Post
    How did you get the old one out?

    The dust seals on mine are melted from track use so I’ll have them off soon
    Might be overkill but could be an answer as well I've been looking at them

    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F253374283824


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    Quote Originally Posted by BazGF8 View Post
    How did you get the old one out?

    The dust seals on mine are melted from track use so I’ll have them off soon
    I drilled and retapped it. Was a pain in the hole


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    Full ISDC Club Member seanie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BazGF8 View Post
    How did you get the old one out?

    The dust seals on mine are melted from track use so I’ll have them off soon
    Have full set of front and back seals there somewhere baz if you need them
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    Full ISDC Club Member BazGF8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nigelbracken View Post
    I drilled and retapped it. Was a pain in the hole


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    Cool
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    Full ISDC Club Member BazGF8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by seanie View Post
    Have full set of front and back seals there somewhere baz if you need them
    Ah balls only ordered a set
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    Quote Originally Posted by BazGF8 View Post
    Has this happened anyone and what are the options to get it removed without damaging threads?
    Hi Baz,

    With a bit of care its possible to save the threads on your caliper. The bleed nipple locks out on the tapered seat at the base of the threaded hole. Once you remove this pressure, the remains of the nipple should unscrew quite easily.

    Measure the diameter of an undamaged nipple just in front of the thread.(It's around 7.0 mm) You need to drill down the centre of the sheared nipple to a depth which just clears the depth of the thread. Do it in steps, 0.5 mm larger drill diameter at a time. This will ensure the drill bit follows the centre line of the bore in the nipple.

    Not easy to do with a hand drill. Better to remove the caliper and use a pillar drill or mill & angle plate - you do not want to drill too deep! The tapered seat on the caliper must remain untouched. Once done the square tang of a file works great - using a hammer tap it into the remains of the nipple and unscrew.

    Next fish out the remains of the tapered tip of the old nipple, Clean everything before fitting a replacement.

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    BazGF8 (05-02-2018)

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    Full ISDC Club Member BazGF8's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Browne View Post
    Hi Baz,

    With a bit of care its possible to save the threads on your caliper. The bleed nipple locks out on the tapered seat at the base of the threaded hole. Once you remove this pressure, the remains of the nipple should unscrew quite easily.

    Measure the diameter of an undamaged nipple just in front of the thread.(It's around 7.0 mm) You need to drill down the centre of the sheared nipple to a depth which just clears the depth of the thread. Do it in steps, 0.5 mm larger drill diameter at a time. This will ensure the drill bit follows the centre line of the bore in the nipple.

    Not easy to do with a hand drill. Better to remove the caliper and use a pillar drill or mill & angle plate - you do not want to drill too deep! The tapered seat on the caliper must remain untouched. Once done the square tang of a file works great - using a hammer tap it into the remains of the nipple and unscrew.

    Next fish out the remains of the tapered tip of the old nipple, Clean everything before fitting a replacement.
    Thanks Alan, great info there much appreciated
    V4 Sti Wagon

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    Alan Browne (06-02-2018)

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