sti type r engine rebuild

S

slithertooth

Sunday Drivers
my first post on here, what`s the going rate for an engine rebuild for an sti type r engine? (oil pump sh*t itself) how much would i be looking at for a 2.5 bottom end? i`ve taken the engine out so that`s a little off the labour i hope
 
Hello Slithertooth,

I would consider a 2.2 bored out re-build to make your new motor a 2.33/5 ltr (open or a closed deck) it will rev more freely....... with a good bit of torque as well :thumbsup:

Cheers,

Michael
 
[quote author=slithertooth link=topic=7963.msg95501#msg95501 date=1214343334]
my first post on here, what`s the going rate for an engine rebuild for an sti type r engine? (oil pump sh1t itself) how much would i be looking at for a 2.5 bottom end? i`ve taken the engine out so that`s a little off the labour i hope
[/quote]

Welcome along :thumbsup:

If you have already decided that a 2.5 is the best option for you then a rough price for the below would be around €2500. Standard 2.5 is a good option for upto380bhp or there abouts and dont mind the revs myth. Lag free and instant response. Or as Michael said you could go fully forged if your planning on alot of mods.

2.5 STi Short Motor
Cometic Head Gaskets
ARP Head Studs
Modified Oil Pump

Damo
 
That's about the price of the short block, (bottom end). The 2.5 can, and do, break the ring lands, if worked hard, but the torque is something else. If going the 2.5 route, you will need to get the heads sorted to match the bore's, a turbo, injectors, ecu and mapping, and think about using forged pistons. Also look into uprating the clutch, as it will suffer from the increase in torque.

John
 
[quote author=slithertooth link=topic=7963.msg95832#msg95832 date=1214503804]
jesus that`s a good price, where would do that?
[/quote]

You would have to pay to get it fitted aswell now, You can also get a brand new STi 7 or 8 bottom end for around €1500, But would still be adviseble to have it mapped. You could prob do the 2.5 or the 2.0 Litre at a similer price as long as you dont allow feature creep to get you. Otherwise you will end up changing injectors and everything else that goes with it. But if its just a standard build your after it wont be to bad and both are going to need a new oil pump modine gaskets etc.

Damo
 
[quote author=johnny99 link=topic=7963.msg95854#msg95854 date=1214511593]
That's about the price of the short block, (bottom end). The 2.5 can, and do, break the ring lands, if worked hard, but the torque is something else. If going the 2.5 route, you will need to get the heads sorted to match the bore's, a turbo, injectors, ecu and mapping, and think about using forged pistons. Also look into uprating the clutch, as it will suffer from the increase in torque.

John
[/quote]


Just dont work it to hard ;) You dont need to run very much boost on a 2.5 to get half decent power anyway so will do 350 / 350 all day long.

Damo
 
Very true, but I bet you that every customer you talk about an engine, tell's you that they hardly ever push it on. I have a customer that tells me that all the time, and then I see my engine on you tube, doing things that Solberg would be proud off.

John
 
:clap: :clap: :clap: :clap:
There you have it!
Some of the most technical minds in the isdc helping you out!
You can't go wrong!
[quote author=slithertooth link=topic=7963.msg95501#msg95501 date=1214343334]
what`s the going rate for an engine rebuild for an sti type r engine? (oil pump sh1t itself) i`ve taken the engine out so that`s a little off the labour i hope
[/quote]
What do you's recken lads :dunno:
Dan
 
I say he hasn't mension a bigger engine so I'd say he's just looking for the same again! Keeps down on cost does it not?
 
I'm taking a long relaxing weekend off (starting now)
You are going to need your sleep with the weekend you have ahead of you with the time attack
I hope it goes well for you!
Hopefully I'll get down to say hello on sunday,
Best of luck :thumbsup:
Dan
 
[quote author=johnny99 link=topic=7963.msg95916#msg95916 date=1214522279]
Very true, but I bet you that every customer you talk about an engine, tell's you that they hardly ever push it on. I have a customer that tells me that all the time, and then I see my engine on you tube, doing things that Solberg would be proud off.

John
[/quote]

Ha Ha well ok then if its mapped right and running 350 / 350 or within its limits they can push it on all they like without any issue :) I agree if you go beyond what the block is capable of then of course problems will happen. But that stands for any block.

As you know yourself the pistons run really tight bore clearance which in turn tighten up in the bore which causes the problem IF your running it at outputs it shouldent be run at.

Damo
 
[quote author=ericsti link=topic=7963.msg95922#msg95922 date=1214523463]
I say he hasn't mension a bigger engine so I'd say he's just looking for the same again! Keeps down on cost does it not?
[/quote]

Eric I think he mentioned the 2.5 in his opening post.

In some cases a 2.5 can be done cheaper then a 2.0 Litre depending what your doing and who's doing it. But if the STi 8 bottom end is about €500 cheaper then the 2.5 bottom end there's the saving. 2.0 or 2.5 he will still need mapping , head gaskets, Oil pump , Modine etc but with the 2.5 your looking at 25% more torque much earlier spool better mid range and a more useable power band and you don’t need to rev the nuts off it.

Don’t get me wrong I still like a 2.0 Litre but depends what your after really. Id prefer to have the 2.5 with something like an 18g or 20g though, then its perfect. If he doesent want more power or have to change anything then id go with the 2.0 Litre one myself. At least then you might not get carried away and start spending a fortune. Regards the clutch you would be mad NOT to change the it while the engine is out as it wont cost anymore on labour to do it.

Damo
 
thanks for all the help. i think i can stretch to a 2.5 bottom end. i have a power fc so mapping shouldn`t be a problem and i`m a mechanic so i can build/fit it myself. my old engine was running 1.2 bar boost and putting out 300bhp. it`s got a full exhaust, induction kit and walbro fuel pump (amongst other things but they`re the main ones) what boost is safe for the 2.5 and what power would that produce? thanx again for the help!
 
I have a 2.5 with a TD05 20g turbo running 1.4bar and she's producing 386bhp
My engine has a higher compression ratio than the 2.5 you'd be getting so it would have a bit more power than the your one for the same boost!
I would maybe look into a motor that would rev more freely thought! eg, an ej20 rev to 8000rpm and the ej25 revs to 7000rpm, I'd imagen a revvier engine might suit the type,r's super close ratio gear box! A 2.35 or 2.25 engine would be ideal I would have thought :dunno: :dunno:
A 2.5 is really torquey from 2500rpm to say 5250rpm, which is great but I just wonder how that would suit a gear box that just flys through that rev range!
Hopefully some type r owners on here will give you some input on that!!!
I do know mick spec c has a 2.25 engine with a 20g with I think 395 bhp and 12.3 sec 1/4mile (something very good anyway) and that revs to around 8500prm
Dan
 
[quote author=forester sti link=topic=7963.msg95995#msg95995 date=1214569208]
I have a 2.5 with a TD05 20g turbo running 1.4bar and she's producing 386bhp
My engine has a higher compression ratio than the 2.5 you'd be getting so it would have a bit more power than the your one for the same boost!
I would maybe look into a motor that would rev more freely thought! eg, an ej20 rev to 8000rpm and the ej25 revs to 7000rpm, I'd imagen a revvier engine might suit the type,r's super close ratio gear box! A 2.35 or 2.25 engine would be ideal I would have thought :dunno: :dunno:
A 2.5 is really torquey from 2500rpm to say 5250rpm, which is great but I just wonder how that would suit a gear box that just flys through that rev range!
Hopefully some type r owners on here will give you some input on that!!!
I do know mick spec c has a 2.25 engine with a 20g with I think 395 bhp and 12.3 sec 1/4mile (something very good anyway) and that revs to around 8500prm
Dan
[/quote]

Dan, why do you think the 2.5 cant rev freely :ponder: .A 2.5 will rev as much as the cams and turbo allow it to, dont buy into that myth. If where talking a road car here rather then a peak figure or 8000rpm limit id want a fast spooling turbo and the widest possible power band not an 8000rpm limit. BUT you can have an 8000rpm rev limit on a 2.5. Torque is what you want and with the 2.5 you dont need to rev it to 8000rpm and theres absolutely no point unless you have a turbo that isent wiped out by then.

But if its a forged job and you have a large enough turbo ( bigger then 20g ) you can rev a 2.5 to 8000rpm as long as the turbo isent out of its efficiency range, If doing a strong block that wont eat up the turbo a 2.135 with 79mm crank is very nice and cheap even if you use some of the best sets of rods and pistons. Or like you say a 2.2 or 2.35. But your into more money there.

In fairness we cant say to this guy your better of with a 2.5 or 2.0 or 2.2 or 2.35 becasue we dont know what his intentded use will be. If its a fast road car with standard engine and with odd track use then the most useable power band from say 2700 rpm to 7000rpm then a bog standard 2.5 would do nicely. I myself prefer a leter spooling turbo but most seem to prefer to get the earliest spool as possible.

At least he can look at all the options and see what suits him and his use best.

Damo
 
guys, come on, you`re not making this easy. i`m begining to think a standard 2.0 bottom end would suit me more now as my car is fairly standard but i do love the thoughts of the torque from the 2.5. also after my last engine let go i most certaintly won`t be revving the stones out of the new one so a 7000rpm limit is no bother to me! but on the other hand i could get a 2.0 bottom end tor less money. :computer: :angry: i don`t know what to do now!
 
Hello Slithertooth,

Just to complicate things a bit further, you should really consider what you expect your Final Car to be and Spec all Mods accordingly :thumbsup:

I have a Type-R Myself, but IMO budgeting & carrying out engine mods on its own is a bit of "Self-Con", with regards to the total you are going to spend on your car :ponder:

I would set a power output first, spool up / delivery of power & then try to cost up the build. This of course will take into account how you are going to stop & how the suspension is going to handle :thumbsup:

Taking this approach will give you a good indication of how much a "total build", will cost. If you do not do this you could end up with a great engine & a car which will not stop / handle well :doh:

I you prepare a budget for your "target car", at least you know that all money you spend will give you the results you originally set out to have :thumbsup:

So as above, spec out your car with all Ancillary Parts needed to Make & Handle the power you require :thumbsup:

Work out how you are going to do this, be it in stages or all in one go :thumbsup:

Once you are happy with your plan & that you have budgeted for all ancillaries....... go for it :thumbsup:

Please remember, once you go over 400Bhp in a Type-R the cost will spiral with regards to drive-line mods :doh:

But all mods, complimenting each other lends to a great (Scary) drive :thumbsup:

Cheers,

Michael
PS Let me know how you get on :subaru:
 
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