Identifying engine & turbo type?

W

Wagon Rob

Octane Boostaholics
Can anyone tell me if there's a way of identifying what spec of engine or what specific car an EJ25 is most likely to have come from?

Was told our car is running a standard TD04 and it seems to run out of puff fairly early so I don't think it's flowing enough air for the engine. Fitted a boost gauge to it today and its boosting just over 0.5bar - is this the normal boost pressure? Unfortunately there's no identity plate on the turbo so I can only go on what I've been told as you can see yourself
y2ybytyn.jpg


A friend has told me I need to be on the lookout for a TD05 to better suit the engine but to be honest all this Subaru turbo stuff is new to me (more used to Nissan turbos) so I really don't know what to do.

Would like to eventually have maybe 300 reliable bhp with full exhaust and remap so maybe that would influence the turbo choice? I'm hoping I wouldn't need injectors or other bits to achieve that target?
 
Some of the teche guys on here should be along shortly to help you out welcome along

Sent from my ST26i using Tapatalk
 
0.5 Bar is Actuator pressure.

If turbo is not original then no point raising boost as huge risk of running lean if is a larger turbo unmapped.

Do you have reason to believe its not original engine?
 
Td04 on a 2.5 bound to run out of puff at about 5000rpm. Very small turbo for a 2.5 . Sounds like you need to find what you have first before changing, as Dave said no point changing to a Td05 and not map it
 
EJ25 on top of the block Dave. Guy selling it told me it was only running the original TD04 and it's beginning to run out of puff by 5k rpm would suggest he wasn't wrong.

There's nothing where the identification plate should be on it, and all I can see down the side is IHI turbo.

Having said that, I haven't actually pushed it beyond that point as I'm eager to get the belt done before anything else.

If I was going to change the turbo then I'd definitely be planning on getting it mapped.
 
As Dave said 0.5 bar is actuator pressure.
You would expect around 0.9 on full boost @ 5000rpm in 4th gear or higher.

Bit hard to be sure from the picture, but is that vacuum tube running from the actuator valve to the air-out on the turbo (just few inches)?
If so it would explain your 0.5 actuator pressure as no boost control in place in that case.

If the above is the case then probably makes the most sense to bring it to one of the traders listed here on the site to sort things out as need to find out what turbo, why by-passed boost control to run actuator pressure, what sort of map on it and if safe to run with proper boost (oem) boost pressure again etc.

Given what you wrote so far I'd get it checked by knowledgeable trader on here first before buying any bits which you may not need or which might not suit your setup.

BTW Ciaran is on the money RE IHI rules out TD04 (which is Mitsubishi manufactured turbo). If IHI there should be a number on it somewhere (though usually on the flat bit shown empty in the picture), unless aftermarket like APEXI which uses some IHI bits for some of the models, or else could be a hybrid (official or unofficial).
 
Thanks for taking the time to type all that Keadeen.

You're spot on the money, the vacuum does run from actuator to air-out on the turbo. There's a t-piece that then runs over to the sensor with the blue plug on the drivers wing, which I'd originally thought was the boost pressure sensor. Pics might help

dy8y9yvy.jpg


8epetara.jpg


I was hoping to take it to Mark Murphy in Douglas soon for a check over. Don't know if he's a trader on here? but saw him mentioned in a thread looking for a decent Mechanic in Cork.
 
If ihi turbo and ej25 you would want to be taking it very handy.


Would also be wise to look into what ej25 year think it is. As seen people put ej25 short blocks from n/a legacys etc in which will run high compression.

So quick compression test and camera inspectiom see what you have for a start. Also may be some block casing numbers which help identify year etc.

Turbo vaccum configuration is correct for a 2port. Would think the restrictor pill is missing by sound of actuator pressure. But running the combo you are i would NOT advise to replace it and raise boost.
 
So the car went in for a timing belt and full service last week. Unfortunately a damaged tensioner mount stalled work meaning he wasn't able to do everything I wanted, but it will be going back in a couple of weeks for more work. So compression test is delayed till then.

After removing bits to get better access to the turbo he discovered that there's no identifying numbers at all on it, so his best guess is that it's a VF27 or VF28. He didn't have time to properly investigate the boost issue either, though he did spot and fix a number of vacuum pipes that were routed incorrectly.

So yeah, not really any the wiser yet, but it is running better after the service and at least I have peace of mind that the belt is done now.
 
Regardless of what turbo or engine model you have, the fact you are running a map for a 2ltr on a 2.5 is not good, and only going to end up the one way IMO, get the few bits tidied up on it, stick a 2nd hand Vf turbo from a newage on it and get it mapped.
 
[quote author=Wagon Rob link=topic=42377.msg486911#msg486911 date=1408464111]
So the car went in for a timing belt and full service last week. Unfortunately a damaged tensioner mount stalled work meaning he wasn't able to do everything I wanted, but it will be going back in a couple of weeks for more work. So compression test is delayed till then.

After removing bits to get better access to the turbo he discovered that there's no identifying numbers at all on it, so his best guess is that it's a VF27 or VF28. He didn't have time to properly investigate the boost issue either, though he did spot and fix a number of vacuum pipes that were routed incorrectly.

So yeah, not really any the wiser yet, but it is running better after the service and at least I have peace of mind that the belt is done now.
[/quote]


VF27 is from a B4. So not that anyway
 
[quote author=davelegacy™ link=topic=42377.msg486934#msg486934 date=1408477660]
VF27 is from a B4. So not that anyway
[/quote]
So odds are its a VF28 so - is that a good thing or a bad thing? :ponder:
 
No good for a 2.5 it's too small, you need a bigger turbo, if not it's just going to be horrible to drive, it will be almost like the boost was switched off up in the revs as the turbo will be wheezing like a 70 yr old chain smoker...
Pick up a turbo that comes as standard on the blob eye sti or even on the hawkeye 2.5.
 
It won't be horrible to drive in all fairness but you will run out of go at about 5000,5500rpm.
On a 2 litre this would only start to drop off near to the redline at 8000rpm on an Sti
 
Not much difference at all in them ken , I've had a 24,35 and a 48 , all made similar power / torque just different spool characteristics .

35 was horrible with its p18 small housing.

48 from a 2.5 and was nice , small bit more top end but change gear at 6k

All the vf are going to be similar
 
Cheers for the input lads. Not ideal then.

Mark (mechanic) suggested a VF34 (I think) as a decent upgrade so must see if I can find out if they come as standard on anything as I won't be forking out for a brand new one anyway!
 
It's a newer turbo alright but will be similar so hold onto your money and get ecu mapping side of it done with the 28 . It's a good ball bearing turbo from a v5/6 Sti .
 
[quote author=BazGF8 link=topic=42377.msg486967#msg486967 date=1408491155]
Not much difference at all in them ken , I've had a 24,35 and a 48 , all made similar power / torque just different spool characteristics .

35 was horrible with its p18 small housing.

48 from a 2.5 and was nice , small bit more top end but change gear at 6k

All the vf are going to be similar
[/quote]


35 is P15 housing
 
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