new engine run in

scoobysub

Well-known member
ISDC Club Member
so everyone seems to have a different way of running in a new engine oil changes how mant . whats the general view on it and best options :thumbsup:
 
Different people will have slightly different opinions, personally I would contact the builder in the uk, engine tuner and ask them how they would advise running in the engine seeing as they built it
 
As I was thought in college while training to be an engineer RTFM
Read The Fu<€ing Manual.
Failing that I totally agree with rob. Especially if god forbid something goes pear shaped once you followed their advice you have a leg to stand on


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[quote author=p1impreza link=topic=40926.msg468143#msg468143 date=1393256672]
Would it not be best to contact engine tuner and get there advise
[/quote]

no decision made on whos going to tune it at the moment afaik
 
:thumbsup: waiting to hear back . I know its differant for most engine builders but any one else run in a new engine what were the steps :thumbsup:
 
ok horses for courses and all that i was advised to run in my car as follows use mineral oil and only rev to 3000 rpm for the first 250 miles with short blasts,plenty of stop starting and loading all the gears,then at 250 swap oil and filter,then same process to 500 miles but now rev to 4000 rpm swap oil and filter at 500 miles and repeat reving to 5000rpm 750 same again then at 1000 put in motul and clocked up i think total 1600 miles no motorway driving bob rawl at the time wanted as many miles up actually he said 2000 but i didnt do that many have had no issues to date with the motor still spot on making the power guess RCM did a good job?now on the other hand have heard of lads clocking up 50 on the dyno and changing oil and mapping,every ones take on this will vary so in my case several thousand miles later lots of drag racing and racing in general and not one engine related issue.
 
Any engine iv ever built would be disconnect crank sensor and spin over till the oil light goes out the reconnect the sensor and start it up leave idle fir bout 10-15 minutes then 2000-2500 rpm for ten minutes change the oil and disconnect the boost control solenoid just run a pipe from the turbo housing to the actuator this give only about 0.6-0.8 bar of boost drive it below 3000rpm for 250 miles change oil and filter then drive for 750 miles change oil and filter again the put everything back original and get it mapped ( properly) and drive her on
 
You have to ask the question... What do you hope to achieve when running in???

Ultimately you want to bed in your bearings and your rings...

If you use a real good oil... Neither will happen.

If you run the engine without any boost, the rings won't bed in..

So you need to ad a little boost to push the rings outward against the cross hatchlings to bed in so you need to run a little boost, under .5 bar... A bit of over run engine breaking has the same effect, so a bit of spirited back road spurts keeping revs under 4k is ideal.. Putting a bit of a pull on the car on a hill or loading it up a big with a high gear is also good for bedding in the rings... But staying in the zone of under 4k and .5 boost.
Nice long pulls are good, so main road, low speed, and a gear that puts a gradual pull on, so you will feather the throttle to get .5 boost as long as possible up to 4krpm

Mineral oil is ok, it will let you run in everything... But you need a bit off boost to bed on the rings... Mineral oil does not offer much protection to bearings when you ad a bit off boost.. Which really don't take much running in..

So a cheap 10w 40 semi is ideal... It's not good enough to stop rings bedding in... But offers protection to the bearings when you ad a bit of boost..

The first 100-200 miles is where you make or break a good engine... If you miss this window and don't bed in the rings then they will never bed in and you will have an oil user. That can't be fixed without a re home.

I did all the frequent oil changes before and tbh, I think IMO it's a load of nonesense, if an engine is that dirty inside that it needs that much oil changing... Your fukd anyway lol..

Put in you cheap 10/40... Run in as above for 200 miles, drop oil and filter... Cheap 10/40 again bring up the revs a bit 4-5krpm and clock up 800 miles, drop oil and filter and use your oil of choice and get mapped.
 
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