suspension mods

i bought a white line ALK kit few months ago and been sitting there,ive now bought 24mm front adjustable and rear 24mm whiteline arb`s and plan on getting centre roll kit and front and rear drop links,i was looking at other bits like camber bolts and diff lock bolts would these be of any use ?and is there any one local to dublin that you could have the car set up with?have no experience with any of this so need some guidance ideally id like the car to corner well and still be able to do the 1/4 mile

:scoobyblueisdc:

What shocks and springs are you running al?

You will have to loose the rear arb for drag as its fare to tick

alrite johnny,ive got zeal function x coilovers fitted,i will disconnet the rear arb when on the 1/4

You won't need the camber bolts for the front so with your coil overs , do you know if the rear top mounts are camber ajustable, you won't really need much camber on the rear,

afaik they are havent looked at them in ages so they may be a waste so!

No they won't be a waste if they are, you just don't need as much on the rears as you do on the front camber wise, a lot of the old time attack scoobies actual ran positive camber on the rears to get the car to turn in better but you won't need this. Yet!!

You getting the car out on track??

im hoping to do the track day if i can have them all fitted and set up in time ive no seats at the min there sitting on a pallet in england waiting on the arbs to be delivered and added got a pair of omp buckets bit lighter than the leather sear bout 10kgs each

You only use the car the odd weekend don't you??

If so I'd run 2 degrees negitive camber on the front and one negitive camber on the rear, any 4 wheel lazer alignment place will do it, I've used Campbell's cross garage out your way before and there grand once you tell them what you want.

You also want to have the rear bar set to hard which you can do when fitting it, there easy to fit on your own, front bar you need to set to soft and to be honest a 24 mm bar is to tick if you can still change it I would to a 22mm one but if you can't you can't, if you you were putting it on a classic ok, but the new age cars are a lot stiffer chassis and don't need a 24mm,

ALK you could fit yourself as we'll but you could get outfitted at Campbell's either, just make sure they put them on the right side or you'll get the wrong caster angle, they are labeled right and left but you know yourself, don't worry about any of the other bits as you'll make the car to fast for your own ability s to start out with, get some lessons for the track day off a good race driver and then see do you want to go any faster

thanks for that i wanna use the car more, ive no real track experience and that's something i want to work at and the handling is shite at the moment and with the power im running makes it well lets say interesting!!

well alan .I would agree with some of what johnny has said to ya as in I would give it some camber front and rear I would fit an anti-lift kit but I would differ in other areas !I don't mean to run your ability down but you have said yourself you need some track training and would like to get more from the car so I will give you my list and reasons why
1. camber bolts front and rear this will allow you to achieve better turn in and stability in bends
2. anti-lift kit best mod you can do to an impreza to stop understeer
3.set the height of the car to achieve a nose down stance it will help with drag racing and it will help with turn in on track as it helps the weight to transfer more quickly to the front when you lift of the throttle also aiding turn in
4.fit a rear subframe lock kit ,stops the rear end moving around under heavy acceleration out of corners and aids stability
5.leave the standard anti roll bars in for now once you fit thicker bars the handleing becomes very edgy ,by that I mean yes it will handle better but it will also make it more likely to let go quickly and if your not experienced at track driving you could get into trouble especially with the power you have also another down side to thick bars is that when the weight transfers from side to side in corners thick bars don't bend so they are inclined to lift the wheel that's next to the kerb fine in a lower power car or for some one with experience but in your car id say it will spin the wheels and end up losing the rear
6.i would soften the suspension a little to allow the tyres to keep contact with the road more than when dragging
I know some of what im saying sounds like it would make it worse but what it will do is give a very forgiving chassis setup so that you can get used to track driving ,don't forget you are driving one of {if not the ]most powerful imprezas in Ireland it needs to be forgiving in the chassis as it wont be when it comes on power,all the above is just my opinion man hope it helps

no hassle dec i totally understand but on track i reakon it will only be ran on the 95 map to start with this was road mapped so unsure of what power it is but probably in the 450/500 area,so hope this will kinda do the opposite of what you said above??

the bars came up at the right money i wouldn't have been able to get them otherwise so it will have to be a bit of a compromise on them,

but as i said i will be fitting the alk,ive spotted somewhere to get the drop links and center roll kit and camber bolts and other bits so ill gather them as im going along,

i then plan to hopefully get maybe yourself and/or johhny to show me the ropes at a tack day if ye were willing then do a training course or something

when abit more confident i can switch to my meth map for 550+ ill never use the drag map at the full 640 on track as race fuel is too expensive!!

the car always lacked in the handling area as that wasn't my main focus but the car sits there when the drag finishes so id like to get more use out of it to justify having it there