advice regarding gearbox refitting problem

scoobysub

scoobysub

Well-known member
ISDC Club Member
:icon_rolleyes: ye me again with more problems :icon_grin: .right after removing the old gearbox fitting a new clutch kit the new gearbox wont go on all the way its about 2" short. the clutch and pressure plate is aligned properly and the release bearing is on the fork is there something i'm doing wrong :ponder:
 
What did you align the clutch plate with Joe?

Have you tried turning the engine over by hand with a power bar and the input shaft might just shimmy in then?

I'm a fecking expert fitting gearboxes at this stage :thumbsup:
 
baz just got there before me
joe check to see if the splines on the clutch and the shaft on the box are perfectly lined up as the two wont engage fully otherwise
 
Also you need the have the fork all the forward as far as it will go towards the engine while fitting the box and when she click into place and you get a few bolts in , give the fork a proper firm push towards the bulkhead which will engage the bearing into the pressure plate
 
clutch alignment tool baz . same as always have put 8 clutch in different things over the past few years and never had a problem or never had to have a second go at it . tried turning the engine by hand and still no joy to line it up . ye the fork is up at the engine side just wanted to check i wasn't doing anything wrong
 
[quote author=scoobysub link=topic=36079.msg413369#msg413369 date=1351896538]
clutch alignment tool baz . same as always have put 8 clutch in different things over the past few years and never had a problem or never had to have a second go at it . tried turning the engine by hand and still no joy to line it up . ye the fork is up at the engine side just wanted to check i wasn't doing anything wrong
[/quote]

I used a broken input shaft that was cut to do mine . did you change the pilot bearing in the flywheel?
 
[quote author=scoobysub link=topic=36079.msg413373#msg413373 date=1351898369]
No didnt change it baz
[/quote]

Maybe check it hasnt collapsed stooping the input shaft from hitting home
 
finally sorted :dance: turns out the 2 bolts on the bottom were bent down a slight bit which wouldn't let the box slide on properly :icon_rolleyes: only discovered it after removing the box again to see was the clutch aligned properly . thanks for all the replies and help lads :thumb

this brings me nicely on to my second question :icon_grin:. do i have to change the diff i read somewhere that you can count the number of cogs on the diff and it will tell you what diff is in it or would it just be safer to change it as i have the one for it here
 
If you have a matching diff and your own is a different ratio of coarse change it. Also to check the ratio it will be stamped into the ring gear. Example if it has 40:9 them you have a 4.4 diff . Whatever is stamped on it divide the small number into the large to get your ratio
 
glad ya got her in joe as for the diff i would just to be sure but having said that if you count the ratio and its the same no need to fit it,simplest way to do it is mark the drive shaft flange and diff casing with tipex at say 12 oclock the go to either side of the diff and mark the diff and casing at 12 o clock then rotate the drive shaft flange counting how many turns of the flange it takes to rotate the diff once thats your ratio
 
thanks lads be lost with out ye :thumbsup: :icon_grin:. just checked both diffs there now and there the same 37;9 which is 4.1 so all is good looks like it might be back together for the rooling road day :dance:
 
Ye johnny it was fooked there was a slight notch in 3th gear all along but i finished off on the trackday. But needed a new clutch anyway so all is good.
 
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