simtec or apexi fc for classic

hi lads gettin car mapped after the x mas was gonna go wit the simtec and get bob rawle and dave legacy to map it wit small anti lag and on a 2 stage boost ie 1.2 and 1.5bar boost and u can use it without maf not wel up on apexi fc i know u cant put anti lag on it and u cant use it without maf any info lads

Power FC is 10+ year old technology. Still a great ECU but there are a lot better features on the Simtek. Simtek is more expensive however.

Definitely Simtek in my opinion.

if i had the option regardless of cost id go with simtek aswell

wat other features are on the simtec and is there anythin better than the simtec any1 using motec etc

Simtek is ment to be smoother than the Motec.
Both tested on the same car and the same mapper from an old trader on here.

simtec all the way

Motec are mad money simtec seem to be the weapon of choice
Talk to nick spec c he is getting great bang for his buck with his simtec

If you have plenty of money, Syvecs is the daddy, guys are taking out there Simtecs for the Syvecs... People throw around names alot, Syvecs, Simtec, Autronic, Hydra, Apexi, Motec etc etc man know the names but few no when which is needed.
If you want to be able to map your car, and have no plans in going mad tuning, well then why spend a fortune? When an 2nd hand Apexi will do the job?
I Hav a Simtec, sure they are gud ecu, but i dont see any difference in what it does compared to my old apexi, sure it has launch control and anti lag, but they are features that ive seldom used, and if given the chance of a 2nd hand Apexi for 300gbp or2nde hand Simtec for 800gbp... well i wouldnt see the anti lag and launch control worth an extra 500gbp.
If you are at the power stage where you need to go mafless, then go Simtec.. if you have endless funds then go Syvecs

just remember, you buy it today and its the daddy, but like all things electronic, 1 yrs time and its old technology

[quote author=KENC link=topic=28225.msg329369#msg329369 date=1293395379]
If you have plenty of money, Syvecs is the daddy, guys are taking out there Simtecs for the Syvecs... People throw around names alot, Syvecs, Simtec, Autronic, Hydra, Apexi, Motec etc etc man know the names but few no when which is needed.
If you want to be able to map your car, and have no plans in going mad tuning, well then why spend a fortune? When an 2nd hand Apexi will do the job?
I Hav a Simtec, sure they are gud ecu, but i dont see any difference in what it does compared to my old apexi, sure it has launch control and anti lag, but they are features that ive seldom used, and if given the chance of a 2nd hand Apexi for 300gbp or2nde hand Simtec for 800gbp... well i wouldnt see the anti lag and launch control worth an extra 500gbp.
If you are at the power stage where you need to go mafless, then go Simtec.. if you have endless funds then go Syvecs

just remember, you buy it today and its the daddy, but like all things electronic, 1 yrs time and its old technology

[/quote]
the fc is on market a while tho down the line looking to go for 450 bhp anti lag jus for the bitof poppin noise wont be gettin launch control as i wont have much use for it

450 bhp will cost you 20k and dont think it will be easy, most people build a car like that and then sell up as it cause to much heart ache,

go reliable 350 and get some nice suspension mods and enjoy some track days instead

20k hardly 740 injectors gt30 turbo front mount and a simtec and few other tiny mods easily get 450 have a 2.5 fully forged cosworth build capable of 450 easy wouldn cost 20k

write down the numbers for everything you need ger and dont forget brakes and a gearbox that will take that power and see what it costs.

brakes and a gearbox will set you back 4 grand

6 speed conversion down the line about 1500 and sell my old dccd running gear get some money back gt30 turbo 1000 to 1500 remap another 1500 little over 6grand should be sorted first thing on the cards is the remap so it will be safe and fun to drive without worryin about detonation any idea on price for syvecs or any the lads running on this

reguardless of what you say ger i know you wont get 450 bhp for under 20k euro and be able to drive her on

theres only 3 cars in this club i know of, that has 450 bhp or over, that are driven on the road, mick spec c s204, alan with his hks car that ecc tuned and simon aka jolly green monster, i would advise you to have a word with them on the cost.

hopefully they will post up here and tell us what they have roughly spent

If you want a Rotated GT30, the turbo alone is 1200 sterling, rotated pipework is around 1k sterling from rcm bit less other places, ex waste gate is around 400 euro.
You will need either 6spd or PPG, and you dont want an early 6spd, so you can scratch the 1500, and look at close to 2500 to get a good newish box and get it in and working, remember you need box, diff, prop, starter, flywheel, and then a Clutch, if you go Exedy you are looking at 1500, cheaper alternatives will be around 700 euro, the list goes on and on Ger,
In October i thought i was around 500 euro and a turbo away from getting my car up and running, ive now spent well over 1500, still have no turbo and have plenty more to spend still.. nothing ever goes to plan and nothing ever ends up costing what you thought.
Dont get Cocky or fall under the illusion that 450 is safe on a Cosworth built motor.. any tuning is not safe.. but the 2.5 block is probably the worst block out there, 400/400 is an easy figure to achieve and should be fairly reliable as they go, but i personally wouldnt push on any further, even if you have fully forged internals, the block is still a factory block, which is poorly supported around the top of bores where its needed.
Things evolve very quickly, one time 2.5 was the way to go, but now more and more are going different routes to achieve 2.5 without using the standard 2.5 block, and if they are using the 2.5 block well they are getting the block pegged or some form of support put around bores.

On the ecu front, pops and bangs can be mapped in on the over run on an Apexi, anti lag that will be run on any road car is only sound effects anyway, despite what people may tell you.
If you have the budget buy a Simtec, but if i was buying a new ecu, i would go the extra mile and go Syvecs...reason being that its most up to date and has more features than Simtec, but then again in a year or 2 Syvecs will be betterd by some other ecu!!! it really is like trying to keep up with the Jones and all snowballs Ger, and what im trying to put across to you is where does it all end? where do you draw the line??

[quote author=KENC link=topic=28225.msg329422#msg329422 date=1293454989]
If you want a Rotated GT30, the turbo alone is 1200 sterling, rotated pipework is around 1k sterling from rcm bit less other places, ex waste gate is around 400 euro.
You will need either 6spd or PPG, and you dont want an early 6spd, so you can scratch the 1500, and look at close to 2500 to get a good newish box and get it in and working, remember you need box, diff, prop, starter, flywheel, and then a Clutch, if you go Exedy you are looking at 1500, cheaper alternatives will be around 700 euro, the list goes on and on Ger,
In October i thought i was around 500 euro and a turbo away from getting my car up and running, ive now spent well over 1500, still have no turbo and have plenty more to spend still.. nothing ever goes to plan and nothing ever ends up costing what you thought.
Dont get Cocky or fall under the illusion that 450 is safe on a Cosworth built motor.. any tuning is not safe.. but the 2.5 block is probably the worst block out there, 400/400 is an easy figure to achieve and should be fairly reliable as they go, but i personally wouldnt push on any further, even if you have fully forged internals, the block is still a factory block, which is poorly supported around the top of bores where its needed.
Things evolve very quickly, one time 2.5 was the way to go, but now more and more are going different routes to achieve 2.5 without using the standard 2.5 block, and if they are using the 2.5 block well they are getting the block pegged or some form of support put around bores.

On the ecu front, pops and bangs can be mapped in on the over run on an Apexi, anti lag that will be run on any road car is only sound effects anyway, despite what people may tell you.
If you have the budget buy a Simtec, but if i was buying a new ecu, i would go the extra mile and go Syvecs...reason being that its most up to date and has more features than Simtec, but then again in a year or 2 Syvecs will be betterd by some other ecu!!! it really is like trying to keep up with the Jones and all snowballs Ger, and what im trying to put across to you is where does it all end? where do you draw the line??
[/quote] all depends on my funds get it mapped and few other lil bits get it up to 350-380 for the time been when i was gettin it built first thing i was asked was wat power was i gonna be running i said between 400-450 so thats wat he built it for said its wel capable of that but no more as for the 2.5 blocks been the worst i never heard of that before all i know is it fully forged steel built wit cosworth internals etc and cosworth aint dirt it will prob be a while again i get my figure once i get it mapped and save to drive without detonation i dont care after that :lol: cause once is enough to build the b***h thanks for all the advice tho ill take it on board

Here you go Ger, Cosworth internals wont help this situation.



And here is one form of prevention that guys seem to be turning too


I hope that is some help to you Ger, internals can only do so much... Are you aware that some consider the 2.5 block so weak that the bores can distort when heads are being torqued up???? And that top builders use things called torque plates to make sure they have this issue addressed.
The plates are put on as heads and torqued up, they have access to bores through the plates, the bores are honed whilst under clamp load.. so when you put your heads on and torque them back up they are bang on as opposed to just honing the bores meaning they are perfect when under no clamp load and when you torque your heads up, the bores can slightly distort and you end up with an oil guzzler or worse .
400 will be a fairly easy figure to get and should be as reliable as you can be with tuning an engine, after that figure imo you are running far more risk

bit of a soft engine so if u ask me ill leave it 350-400 be plenty

EJ257 was not there best block alright, loads of reports of inconsistancy in the blocks even in brand new motors from Subaru, some were oil guzzlers in standard form.
Anywhere from 360 to 400 wiil be fast car, remember with 2.5 you will see 400ftlbs no problem, and at 380bhp you could have 400ftlbs, you dont want to go over that with type r box.
You will notice with 2.5 that smallish turbos will run out of puff up in revs, so something like the turbo i had for sale are good. i found the td05 20g ran out of puff up in revs. Dont forget to drop your rev limit down to 6800-7k revs
I hope i havent turned you off completely, but its better you are made aware. You could have 400bhp at not much cost and have good reliability, and to go 50bhp more will cost you thousands and it wont be half as reliable.. and its only 50bhp more

ill aim for 380 and at that torque figure will be plenty once its safe thats all im bothered about wat turbo had u for sale thanks for the advice lad