Intake manifold

As far as I know,
it will turn, but the plate where the pipe goes in is at an upward angle, that has to be cut off and angled down so the pipe does not hit the under side of the bonnet!
Also, the altinator has to be relocated!
It is a great mod though!
Dan
 
[quote author=silverbullitt link=topic=24888.msg294689#msg294689 date=1278545192]
someone care to explain this to the uneducated
[/quote]
+1 :ponder2: :ponder2:
 
the only addvantage to reversing the intake manifold is shorter pipe work from a front mounted intercooler which would give better cooling, less lag and some weight saving.

there is no need for it to be done on a road or track car, it would have to be a full on race car to feel the difference for the amount of hasel it is to do
 
It's a lot of work... but as Robbie said... looks savage.

There's no problem to unbolt a V2 one and spin it round but you need to get an angled wedge plate welded in to point the throttle body/pipework down more or it will hit the underside of the bonnet.

I've a few pics below of it done... :thumbsup:
 
Just noticed in the pics jamie posted that you don't need to straighten the throttle body mount, you can just use a longer bit of samco, interesting :ponder:
 
@ Blitzer09.... Most are DIY jobs TBH!

Don't think aynone in particular does em! RCM and a few other companies offer manifolds tweaked to reversed spec... but they are bloody pricey! ***EDIT*** See above!

best giving it a shot yourself... onnly dificulat bit is making up alloy wedge and getting someone handy at alloy welding to weld em for ya!

@ Scoobymaniac... that pic shows one with a wedge plate welded on. Without the plate and even with a 90degree samco... throttle body will still foul off bonnet! :icon_rolleyes:
 
1 more thing Blitzer.... alternator needs to be relocated to where aircon sits.... so you'll need to scrap aircon... make up a new tensioner bracket for alternator and also fit a new guide wheel to guide the longer belt required to reach the alternator!!

Yeah... it's a good deal of work an unless you're running big power... not probably worth it!
 
dave lewis had this done on my engine when it was in his car

there is alot of fabrication work and having to cut some of the bonnett strenghting bar away aswell to get it to work

looks great but not worth the hasel for a road car
 
[quote author=JAMIE-TYPERV6 link=topic=24888.msg294748#msg294748 date=1278591021]
@ Scoobymaniac... that pic shows one with a wedge plate welded on. Without the plate and even with a 90degree samco... throttle body will still foul off bonnet! :icon_rolleyes:
[/quote]

Ah I see it now, Its looks nearly factory. Didn't spot the welds until i looked properly :hammerhead:
 
[quote author=Scoobymaniac link=topic=24888.msg294794#msg294794 date=1278595850]
[quote author=JAMIE-TYPERV6 link=topic=24888.msg294748#msg294748 date=1278591021]
@ Scoobymaniac... that pic shows one with a wedge plate welded on. Without the plate and even with a 90degree samco... throttle body will still foul off bonnet! :icon_rolleyes:
[/quote]

Ah I see it now, Its looks nearly factory. Didn't spot the welds until i looked properly :hammerhead:
[/quote]

Tasty job aright! :thumbsup:
 
When engine is being put back together, I'll see if the inlet manifold reversed, but still pointing upwards will clear the altinater, hence saving my air-con
I have a lot more room between the bonnet and the engine than the imprezas!
I have even thought of using spacers between the inlet manifold and the heads to step it up a bit and to get more penlum volume (which is supposed to be a good thing!)
I'd run the pipes over everything and either side of the rad to the big grill between the the headlights rather than going through the wings, and I'd rotate the compressor housing of the turbo so it's facing up for even shorter pipe work!
If all that worked out, The pipe work would be damn near 3M shorter (at best) the likes of Hybrid or autobhan88

I would very much like to see on a dyno run, a car come off throttle, and back on and the delay measured,
Then reverse the inlet manifold and re-run!
It has to make a difference,
I drove Micks 2.25 with a 20g and a front mount, and it was defo laggier than my forester when it had the 20g, saying that the forester is 2.5, but I thought it was a bit much, even at high revs!

Dan
 
Think you can also run the piping from the turbo under the manifold Dan, rather than going over it... May depend on the version of manifold though...

This is JGM's:
1yiqse.jpg


Goes straight down pastthe rad, not even through the wing :icon_headbang:
 
[quote author=forester sti link=topic=24888.msg294823#msg294823 date=1278601706]
When engine is being put back together, I'll see if the inlet manifold reversed, but still pointing upwards will clear the altinater, hence saving my air-con

[/quote]

Defo won't clear alternator Dan unless you use savage large spacers between manifold and heads... which in turn pushes you closer to bonnet and no matter ho much extra engine space you have on Forester... you won't clear it without contact between it and throttle body! I'd be very surprised if it did clear!
 
If I can't rotate the manifold and keep the air-con, then I wont do it!
I'll stick with the top mount and go water/meth route yo cool charge temps!
Or do something mad with the top mount!

Dan
 
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