ARB AND DROP LINKS
- Thread starter tommy 555
- Start date
STiBrian
Octane Boostaholics
Some stuff listed for the non-turbo alright Tommy, check page 48 of the catalogue 
http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/catalogues/WLFO - EDITION 5a web version.pdf
http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/catalogues/WLFO - EDITION 5a web version.pdf
F
forester sti
Guest
If you want Arse out sytle, then just go for 22mm rear ARB
And max negative camber on the front! (I can do this on the day) and we can put it back before you drive home!
Dan
And max negative camber on the front! (I can do this on the day) and we can put it back before you drive home!
Dan
S
Scoobymaniac
Guest
[quote author=forester sti link=topic=23304.msg278728#msg278728 date=1272840355]
If you want Arse out sytle, then just go for 22mm rear ARB
And max negative camber on the front! (I can do this on the day) and we can put it back before you drive home!
Dan
[/quote]
22mm 3 point adjustable whitleline ARB needed there, not just the fixed whiteline one.
As for camber, ALWAYS have it done by a professional with laser allignment tools, doing it by eye will never be correct and as for "put it back before you drive home" this can not be done with any accuracy at all without professional equipment. Tyre wear will be effected as a result and could end up being costly when you've to buy new tyres.
Go for whiteline Anti-Lift Kit to reduces understeer
If you want Arse out sytle, then just go for 22mm rear ARB
And max negative camber on the front! (I can do this on the day) and we can put it back before you drive home!
Dan
[/quote]
22mm 3 point adjustable whitleline ARB needed there, not just the fixed whiteline one.
As for camber, ALWAYS have it done by a professional with laser allignment tools, doing it by eye will never be correct and as for "put it back before you drive home" this can not be done with any accuracy at all without professional equipment. Tyre wear will be effected as a result and could end up being costly when you've to buy new tyres.
Go for whiteline Anti-Lift Kit to reduces understeer
F
forester sti
Guest
Very accurate and "by the book" advise there above!
In practise, I have been doing this for the last two years, (by eye)
My road tyres wear evenly, steering doesn't pull, and they have lasted over two years now, and they still have a little bit of life left in them
And I don't drive easy!!
I mark the camber bolts with a scribe before I touch them, wind them in as far as possible for on track and back to the mark for road use!
It's hard to do first time, because they will have never been touched before, but after that it's just two bolts before you go on track!
I can't recommend it enough, it makes a huge difference!
Dan
In practise, I have been doing this for the last two years, (by eye)
My road tyres wear evenly, steering doesn't pull, and they have lasted over two years now, and they still have a little bit of life left in them
And I don't drive easy!!
I mark the camber bolts with a scribe before I touch them, wind them in as far as possible for on track and back to the mark for road use!
It's hard to do first time, because they will have never been touched before, but after that it's just two bolts before you go on track!
I can't recommend it enough, it makes a huge difference!
Dan
S
Scoobymaniac
Guest
Actually, asuming the allignment is correct to begin with then your idea of marking the bolts with a scribe is a very good one dan.
So I take back what I said. Your plan's a good one
So I take back what I said. Your plan's a good one