Oil Coller.... Do I need a thermostat?? - more info required

Paddy scooby

Middle Lane Hogs
Hi Folks,

Looking at fitting an oil cooler again and just wondering, can anyone tell me do I need to incorporate a thermostat into the oil cooler system?

The system Im looking to install has an oil filter relocator and oil cooler, thats it.

Any advice or input is appreciated.

rgds

Paddy
 
Re: Oil Coller.... Do I need a thermostat??

I would advise a Mocal cooler. http://www.thinkauto.com/

You can get a sandwidge plate, which incorporates a thermostat to send oil to the air to oil cooler when it gets too hot and the standard oil to water cooler won;t cut it.
S/S hoses and the air to oil cooler itself.

The sandwidge plate fits where the oil filter goes and the filter then sits on it.

Very easy to install, just have to find where you want to hang it ( behind the front grill is the easy place ) and measure the length of hose you will need and they will deliver it to you

Top quality products and decent price

Hope this helps :thumbsup:
 
Re: Oil Coller.... Do I need a thermostat??

Hi Paddy
Does the sandwich plate you have incorporate a thermostatically controlled valve as you only want to run the oil through the cooler when it's over working temperature.
Hope that helps?
Niall
 
Re: Oil Coller.... Do I need a thermostat??

Thanks lads,

Thats exactly the type of info Im looking for fair play to you's. The only thing is I have the oil filter relocation kit also. Unless I do away with the relocation kit and just install the cooler and have that sandwich plate/oil filter adapter plate with the built in thermostat instead.

Maybe that sounds like the best Idea really as why do I need to relocate the oil filter! As its very easy to access anyway. Good point lads and thanks for the advice!

Rgds

Paddy
 
Re: Oil Coller.... Do I need a thermostat??

Hi Lads back to this again!

Regarding the sandwich plate;
If I get a sandwich plate with a built in thermostat ok and again under normal operating conditions the oil is circulating as normal yeah. Well than when the oil gets hot and the thermostat opens and the oil flows through the cooler will the amount of oil in the sump not reduce dramatically by the amount that it takes to fill the cooler and about 2meters of pipes in total (feed/return)?

Let me know your thoughts on this as I was nearly thinking a constantly open sandwich plate would be the way to go because when you service the car and fill the car up with oil, than run for a minute or so than top it up for the final time. Than it should be at the full level all the time.

Cheers folks

Paddy
 
OOh,
That's an interesting one!
I'm sure you'd need more oil per servise, and you'd have to remove the filter and sandwich plate to drain all the oil,
If you run open loop the whole time, it will take forever for the oil to reach normal temp, so not a good idea!
I imagen being a pressurised system, there isn't a concern about air bubbles in the oil cooler,???
Would you have to be very carefull to bleed the cooler to ensure she always absolutely full??

Good thread
Dan
 
Hi Dan,

Thanks for your input. Yeah they are more concerns I didnt even think about! so thanks for that! I wonder should I just leave well alone? Like it is running grand. Maybe a little/little hotter than before but still managing grand. But its a nice mod to have fitted aswell!

I would love if some traders or people with some experience of fitting them or have an oil cooler fitted could give a little input to there experiences.

Thanks again folks!

rgds

Paddy
 
Yeah,
Sorry to give you more to worry about,
I am just obsessively concerned about oil feed issues, I'm so afraid that I'll do something wrong and the engine would run dry, and then she's FUBAR, if the big end bearings run dry, even just for a moment, it could be davastating,
At least if you get a trader to do it, then things are less likely to go wrong and you have some come back!
Dan
 
Hi Paddy,

When you are installing the oil cooler and hoses, you need to fill them with oil before you connect it to the sandwidge plate... same as you do with an oil filter when fitting. Make sure you keep the cooler lower than the hose so you don't get an air lock.

After that you fill the sump as normal, start your engine and wait for it to come to temperature, you might need to rev the engine a bit to heat the oil up to open the valve but keep an eye on the oil level as well. Once the oil is hot enough you'll fell the heat in the hoses and cooler and you can then shut off the engine and fill it on the dip stick to normal. Don;t worry, it won;t drain back into the sump :thumbsup:

I couldn't recommend it more, the car I had it on melted 2 pistons before I installed it and no worries afterwards, once you feel the heat in the cooler and the difference in the flow and return hoses, you'll see why its so good to have :thumbsup:

Let me know if you need a hand installing, I'd be happy to help
 
If it help to keep the engine block cooler, then your car is less likely to suffer from detination,
Good mod indeed!
Great advise there Cill
Dan
 
No worries Dan,

Have you any plans to get one yourself?... seems like you have everything else on that monster of yours :icon_grin:

Cheep mod and great piece of mind...
 
Hi Cill,

Thanks for the input man! You layed some demons to rest for me there!

But just one point Im still a little hazy about is, that going forward, and when I'm servicing the car again, do I need to remove the entire cooler matrix in order to drain all the old oil out and refill with the new stuff? Like would I have to go through that procedure every time I am servicing the car? I would prefer not to be mixing the new oil with old oil that is remaining in the cooler matrix or pipes.

I was thinking of mounting the cooler infront of the radiator with the hoses entering at the bottom of the cooler. Any ideas on this? :thumbsup:

Thanks for the offer of a hand with it though.

Rgds

Paddy
 
Howdy,

Yep, you do need to take it off when changing the oil but it is easy done, the hoses connect under the block onto the sandwidge plate using snap on fittings, just whip them off when changing the oil, let it drain and repeat the filling process again... easy :thumbsup:

When I got mine, I bought the threaded fittings for safety but it was a mistake in hindsight as the whole feckin hose twists when tightening :angry1: And I saw the snap on kind on another car after and they work perfect, thinkauto will ask what kind when ordering, get the snap on :thumbsup:

Mounting in front of the rad would be kewl, you just need to work out which way you will run your hoses so you order the right length, remember they are braided so they are limited in how much you can bend them. Also the cooler can be side or bottom entry so work out where you will hang it exactly :thumbsup:

I used 9mm threaded bar to hang mine and put them through some existing holes in the chassis where the front grill was held, I just replaced the plastic rivets with the bar and nuts

Oh yeah, get a 13 row cooler or so, it may look small but it has huge cooling properties :thumbsup:
 
Hi Cill,

Your a star man fair play!
And thanks a million Dan aswell for your input, brilliant!

I think this thread should be saved in some kind of archive as that is all the info I have been looking for, for about 4 months now! Couldn't kind it on ISDC or scoobynet or anywhere. Cheers Cill, thats a wealth of info there!

Top marks lads!

Rgds

Paddy
 
[quote author=Cill link=topic=16463.msg206202#msg206202 date=1248948083]
No worries Dan,

Have you any plans to get one yourself?... seems like you have everything else on that monster of yours :icon_grin:

Cheep mod and great piece of mind...
[/quote]

Defo, I really like doing this kind of stuff myself, Especially as I service her myself, it is very important to understand how it all works!
I'm just a bit frightened of screwing it up, and possibly melting my new engine and turbo, I won't have the kind of money I'd need to fix them for a good while yet!
I do need better cooling, as I won't to keep the top mount,
I have never noticed the water temp gauge raising under track conditions, Davelegacy fitted A ZeroSports thermostat a while ago and now the needle sits a little lower than it used to, so I know the gauge is sencitive enough, So I'll probibly stick with standard rad, and get myself an oil cooler!
Again, fair play to all who contributed to the thread, Very good info!
Dan
 
Hi Dan,

Its great to have a water temp gauge alright, the standard one won't show the small movement an aftermarket one will, defo a good mod :thumbsup:

To be honest, I personnaly would get an aluminium rad at the same time as a front mount... the heat soak and obstruction from the front mount would concern me :ponder:

Anyway, I'd say you'll end up getting 3 aluminium pieces at the front of chariot soon enough!!! :lol:

If either of you decide to go down this road, try and keep a photo record and post it up to help anyone else thinking of it :thumbsup:
 
Definitly :thumbsup:

Probably be another 2-3weeks before I get stuck in, just after sourcing my hoses and quick release coupling there now so have to wait for them to be delivered than Id say another service should be due around than so watch this spacer! :thumbsup:.

Cheers again lads. :subaru: :icon_headbang:

Rgds

Paddy
 
lads i really be interisted on info on this i have oil cooler waiting to be fitted, but im slow in fitting it niw after hearing some of the above until i know the correct way to fit and which way works best, :thumbsup:
 
Lads.....

Just out of curiosity.... Does the addition of one of these oil cooler yokes not lower the oil pressure? Im told it will but i dont see how if could if the cooler has extra oil...
surely the extra amount of oil would bring the pressure back to normal levels?

Anyone know for certain?
 
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