b4rsk questions (renamed)

N

northdublin

Petrolheads
after a conversation with another member the other night i was wondering how do you get to the boost solinoid that is behind the inner wing to the right of the battery. dou you have to take out the wing liner? and is it a good idea to clean this out that same way as the other solinoids with carb cleaner and compressed air. also is there a reason why the hose going to this solinoid is so long and so remotely located in relation to the other solinoids, ie is there a technical reason for this or could it be relocated to a more accessible area of the engine bay or would reducing the lenght of the hoses mess up the t/t system

ps for the benefit of b4 owners could be have anything that has been discussed on solinoids and the t/t sytem maybe put into its own section in the f&q area......just an idea......many thanks.
 
Re: another solinoid question

You have to undo a few clips and pull back some of the wheel lining so you can get at the solenoid. You have to remove the battery too, so you can get at 2 nuts that hold it in place. Don't know why they put it there, they don't like to make things easy for us! :lol:
(See page 9 of attached pdf :thumbsup: )
 

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Re: another solinoid question

fair play johnjoe........do ye have anything like that pdf for the passenger airbag assembly. :thumbsup:
 
Re: another solinoid question

[quote author=northdublin link=topic=14230.msg176142#msg176142 date=1239297602]
fair play johnjoe........do ye have anything like that pdf for the passenger airbag assembly. :thumbsup:
[/quote]

This is all I can find so far, (See page 13 of attached pdf) doesn't go into too much detail but hopefully it will be useful to you. :thumbsup:
 

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thanks again johnjoe.........it shows 3 bolts from underneath in a previous pic so thats all i need to know.
today im goin to get in at the boost solinoid to give it and the pipework a clean. is there anything i need to look out for or something i could potentially do wrong
 
after reading keiths write up on the fmic i was wondering how do you connect a fmic to a b4.from taking off my own tmic there is two inlets, one with a butterfly valve on it which i presume is for when the secondary turbo kicks in. is there a special type of fmic for the t/t set up or do the pipes just merge into one with a similar valve inline.
 
Getting the bumper clips lined up and back place in can be a bit frustrating :doh: Was for me anyway :lol:
I think Couture fit front mount kits to the B4s, not sure how it's done, intake pipe is probably just 2 pipes joining into 1 with the butterfly valve on the secondary pipe as you say.
 
ied love to have a look at the couture car to see how its done, ive no intention of fitting one cause there is enough lag in the b4's as it is.

now for something completely differant....had the brakes off today and was wonderin how important is it to have the banjo bolt eyelet lined up in relation to the feed hole in the banjo? does it matter if they dont line up directly oppisite each other or do you just put the bolt in and tighten it and there is enough room around the inside of the bolt for the fluid to get trough. also when changing to impreza 4 pots does the existing brake hose work or do you need the lines from an impreza, ie is the banjo and the bolt the same on the leggy as is on the b4
 
The groove on the inside of the banjo fitting will allow the fluid to flow around and through to the hole in the bolt.
Only thing to check is if you're using 2 new copper sealing washers, that they are the right thickness so that the hole in the bolt lines up to the groove in the line fixing, if ya get me :thumbsup:
I just used my existing line when I put on the 4 pots. Best job is if you can get the Impreza 4 pot lines, as they have a little hook on the end of the line fitting that slots into a small hole in the caliper so that the line will not spin or come loose.
 
there is a channel in the hose head so it doesnt matter where the holes in the bolt line up mick!!!!
the original hoses are compatible with impreza calipers but a change to stainless steel braided hoses at the same time would be a good move!!!!
hoses only cost in the region of 60/70 euro for a full set !!!!
:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 
thanks lads, is it me or are there very few people who know anyting about the b4's. it seems to be the same people answering my questions........not that im complaning any advice i can get ill take. or am i asking dumb questions that arent a challenge to the wise among us :icon_nana:

can ye gimme an idea of what brake fluid to put in the car to top it up, i lost a wee bit when i removed the calipers but its still well above the min mark.
also can you get reconditioning kits for the calipers, the rubbers are lookin kinda perished a bit on mine but should last untill i can afford the upgrade.
 
does anyone know how many wires should be on the lamda sensor on the down pipe on a b4. there are 3 wires on mine but only 2 are connected. one has been cut just before it goes into the sensor. was this cut for a reason ie there only need be 2 wires or should it be 3. are they difficult to change and is there a 3 pin plug in the engine bay or do you just cut the cable and rejoin the wires.
 
[quote author=alantul link=topic=14230.msg177286#msg177286 date=1239664056]
how did you get on with the boost solinoid? any improvement?
[/quote]

tbh not much improvement, i did however move it into the engine bay for easier access. ied like to replace it and the other solinoids just to see if it makes a differance. im dyin to drive another b4 to compare it with mine.
 
ya id love to aswell, this one i have is no where near as quick as my last one,
it seems lazy in the lower revs..
 
[quote author=alantul link=topic=14230.msg177849#msg177849 date=1239797602]
ya id love to aswell, this one i have is no where near as quick as my last one,
it seems lazy in the lower revs..
[/quote]

i took out the solinoid box and gave it a clean and it made a bit of a differance, the ammount of oily residue that gathers around the intake and intercooler after 7/8 years is something else. im tryin to get the car to what it would have been like out of the factory or clos to it but i might be aiming a bit high :hammerhead:
 
just on the topic of the lamda sensor, one of the wires is broke on mine and i believe this is why the car is a pig to drive untill it warms up. the two white wires are for the pre-heater in the sensor and the black wire is the sender to the ecu. one of the lads on another site filled me in and i thought it might be usefull to someone else here.
ive put out a shout for a sensor so hopefully i get it soted soon.
 
right heres one on induction, if you fit an induction kit to a b4 and retain the use of the maf, do you still need to have the car mapped, if the maf is still in place, is it not still doing the same job only that how the air is filtered has changed. ive seen scoobys with induction kits with and without the maf, is there a way of excluding the maf alltogether when the car is being mapped.
 
with simtek,the maf is done away with!!!
fitting an induction kit requires a remap for sure as the kit sucks in more air the original airbox will do!!!!
:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 
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